We finished our coffee on a little raised gravel beach in Baillarge Bay (more on that later when I get it all sorted out) and toured around Baillarge Bay for a while, looking for seal and then turned for home. Baillarge Bay is truly a spectacular setting. More rugged and narrow than Strathcona and Adam's Sound, it is completely walled with high mountains. An archetypal fjord. It was stunning laced with low clouds, softened by the steady rain.
The cliffs on Admiralty Inlet here are some of the most fantastic in the area. Almost out of the realms of fairy tales. Tall spires, figures on stands, hoodoos, all manner of shapes. Half shrouded in fog or low cloud it looked like the approach to Mordor, a stark, eerily beautiful spot in this weather.
Ship Point, or Umiarjuannuaq is the corner anchoring these two spots. a massive angular corner demarking the southern mouth of Baillarge Bay, like the prow of a huge boat. I often wonder how many people would throng to visit our landscape here if it was, say, an hour out of Toronto. Perhaps I should be grateful we are so far away, but it is sad that so many do not get to experience this magical world.
We had just turned out into Admiralty Inlet, after leaving a curious Bearded Seal in our wake, when someone noticed a patch of white at the base of Umiarjuannguaq. The white quickly resolved itself into a young Polar Bear. Upon the approach of our boat it turned and headed south along the base of the cliffs.
It traveled along at a steady lope, just ahead of us. We closed as near as the depth of the water would let us, perhaps 20 or 30 metres away, and followed it as it moved along the narrow path at the bottom. It continued on this way, occassionally huffing at us, but only rarely pausing and looking back. Then at a small valley emptying in to the inlet it turned and climbed away. Leaving its annoying visitors to their own devices.